Strathyre

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A nice wee sport crag with short but good quality sport routes on nice compact schist - deserves a resurgence!

Contents

Directions & Approach

Grid Ref: NN 555 192

Streetmap

From Strathyre village turn off the A84 opposite a hotel onto a single track road, (signposted NCN 7 for Balquhidder), and cross over a bridge. At a fork in the road go right. 1.6 miles from the main road is the start of the path up the hill to the crag. To park continue for 150 meters to a parking bay opposite a forestry access track.

The road forms part of National Cycle Route 7, and is used by many novice cyclists - please drive with care.

Approach

Time: 10mins

From the parking head back down the road for about 150m until reaching a clearing and a Larch plantation, from which follow an indistinct path up through the Larches, and into denser Sitka. You should pass a large boulder, and continue through the right side of the Sitka as the hill steepens. The crag should appear in a clearing to the right.

Access

The crag is used by a local outdoor centre for abseiling sometimes (though by the looks of the path not that often)

The Routes

The routes are described from left to right, starting just left of the prominent arete of Electrodynamics.

Strathyre-Topo-Left-Hand.jpg

1. Power Sink 10m 7b
R Anderson. 1994
The left most line of bolts, round the corner from the main wall, left of the prominent arete of electrodynamics.

2. Electrodynamics 10m 7a ***
R Anderson. 1993
The prominent overhanging arete at the left of the crag.

3. Bridging the Gap 10m 6c+ *
R Anderson. 1994
Starts up easier ground, before tackling the groove. Go left at the top to electrodynamics belay

4. Crossed Wires 10m 6a+
R Anderson. 1996
Starts at Short circuit, follow the line of flakes up rightward to finish at the top of Static Discharge.

5. Short Circuit 10m 6b **
R Anderson. 1993
The dirty shallow groove

6. Clam Chowder 10m 7a *
G Ridge. 1994
The line of staples. head up a groove to a small ledge at half height.

7. High Tension Lead 10m 7c *
P Thorburn. 1994.
Starts in the center of a lighter patch, veers right.

8. Static Discharge 10m 7b ***
R Anderson. 1993
Starts at the lowest point of the wall. Climb through a flake past some sharp edges to the crack. Follow the crack left to a good rest, the head back right to the belay.

9. New Power Generation 10m 7c/7c+ (tbc) **
Alan Cassidy. 2007
The strathyre project finally cleaned up and a very nice wee route too. Start by a patch of quartz. Climb the bolts just right of Static discharge to a slabby, rockover, crux move just before the belay. Great!

10. Cracking the Lines 10m 7b *
R Anderson. 1994
Starts by the bottom of the crack. Follow the crack al the way to a rest, then right to the belay.

11. All Electric 10m 7b+ **
R Anderson. 1996
Start by bottom of crack, head up rust coloured patch of wall.

12. Circuit Breaker 10m 7b *
R Anderson. 1994
Start about 3m right of the crack, by some triangle pockets. Surmount the ledge then head straight up.

Power Surge 10m 6c *
R Anderson. 1993
Starts at the bottom of a lighter streak, onto the ledge - SOMETHING - finish up groove.

Spark Thug 10m 6b *
R Anderson. 1994
Start on the platform, and climb the back corner up on to the slab

Right Wall

The wee wall to the right end of the main crag. Routes are described left to right

Circuit Bored, 6c, 7m
Start at the left of the crag on the wave like holds, and head diagonally right and up, staying below the lip of the crag, to a common belay.

Bloody Shocking, 6b, 6m
Start by a broken flake, and head up a shallow groove then the wall. There is a tricky little move which may stop some in their tracks.



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