Summer Updates

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Dave Redpath - 16/09/2002

Just after our last report Richard Waterton completed 'Leopold' at Stell Hut Crag, his ascent was also done using pre-place gear to give the route a sport feel of 8a+.

Niall McNair continued his trad insanity on a recent trip to North Wales, notably Niall ticked his first Fr 8a making a second redpoint ascent of 'Mussel Beach'. The day before he onsighted 'Lord of the Flies' E6 6b after a gradual build up by onsighting pretty much everything else on Dinas Cromlech! Obviously not content with his sport injection though, Niall bagged 'Off the Beaten Track' Fr 8a at Glen Ogle the next again weekend in a similar time period.

Since the last report a frienzy of bouldering activity has taken place.

Over August and September Mike Tweedley and Dave MacLeod added a number of lines to the 'Kennedy Boulder' so named due to its grassy knowle a welcome releif from the landings so many other poteintial venues lack. Mike was to find this to his advantage however when his ab-rope pulled dropping him onto his back 4 meters from the lip of the boulder. Luckly no damage was done that a bit twisting and pulling at the kiropractor couldn't fix.

Mike first in on the action came away with most of the gems, of note 'Assasin' Font 6b, 'Oswald' Font 6b and 'Trigger Happy' Font 7b.

Dave MacLeod made a sweep of the hard problems to give So Jackie O and Brinkmanship both Font 7b+. Next of was 'The Hotline' Font 7c+ which took Dave a bit longer to complete due to its frustrating dynamic nature.

To give a clean sweep Dave concluded with 'Bullet in Your Head' Font 7c a twisting reach through the 60 Degree roof at the Back of the Kennedy Boulder and 'The Nuclear Button' Font 7c+ which gives the direct finish to the 'Hotline'.

Keep an eye out in the near future for Dave MacLeods Arrochar guide at Scotlandonline and for Mike Tweedleys Brack Guide Here. Full details of the Arrochar and Brack problems can be found on our New Routes Database.

Recently Dave MacLeod made a fast ascent of Paul Savages 'Evil Twin' over two days confirming the grade of Font 8a+, commenting that it felt much harder than 'Pongo S.S.' Font 8a at Dumbarton.

At Glen Massan Dave cleaned up the last gap on the house boulder to give 'Rapier' Font 7c, not even a passing bull detered him from this ascent. Earlier on in the month he dispatched the high finish to 'Bladerunner' to give 'Broadsword' Font 7c.

Up at the Sky Pilot area Dave got cracking to repeat cubby's 'Catch 22' Font 7c as well as another new problem 'Press Gang' Font 7c+. A week later Dave climbed the line parallel to the 'Beatleback' finish to give 'Burning The Candle' at Font 7b+.

Developments continue on the East coast as the debate over who's line who's at Ruthven goes on, we just want a guide out folks... More orgainised parties have got themselves together and published Guides for Port Leithen (Tim Rankin, see S.o.L.) and Luath ( Stuart Stronach, see S.C.).

Well all this actions not went unnoticed as 'Climber' readers will have noticed, all above seem to gained high praise indeed from Si Panton, North Wales Bouldering Governor.

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