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How about a complete list of the routes here, Ridge/Shepherd are you up for it :) --Dredpath 19:34, 22 May 2006 (BST)

There you go -gr

Nice one. Anyone have any topos for the quarry? --Dredpath 09:04, 23 May 2006 (BST)

probably. I'll see if there are any photos too. I'll give Sheppy a call Gr


Thread titleRepliesLast modified
Merchant of Menace520:58, 14 June 2010
Balmashanner315:47, 18 May 2010

Merchant of Menace

Does anyone know what the deal with the direct (8b+)/indirect (8b) version of this is. I'm assuming it has something to do with the newer route that has appeared to the right. I can't see that there is any way to go more direct unless you avoid the obvious sloper/crimp (below the large resined over patch) on the right at the top of the crack. This would be so contrived it would be daft. Has the original grade changed due to this (new?) hold? It would be interesting to hear what the more recent ascentionists did and what the controversy was all about?


AC18:01, 23 May 2010

People I've spoke to said 8b for sure. Dunno what it is if you step in from the right. I take it the big crimp on the right is still filled in?

DaveR23:43, 23 May 2010

Aye the filled in hold is still fully covered so there's no cheating option there. Cool moves, shame it's a pain in the arse to get it dry.

AC20:23, 24 May 2010

was up a few weeks ago and thought merchant looked dirtier and slimier on the ramp than from 2 years ago so could do with a clean when dry? From talking to other ascentionists have done, the sloper/crimp is in but not the flake that is 1 foot up and right (above the filled in hold), basically if you grab this flake then you can step into the corner.

Niall McNair17:21, 25 May 2010

Yeah, that makes sense Niall. It was in good condition last night, all clean and dry. It gets totally goppin with condensation if the weather's as hot as last weekend though.

AC18:17, 26 May 2010

It's worth noting in case anyone else goes to try this soon that the flake mentioned above is no more, thanks to the unintentional combined efforts of Wee Timmy and Big Lenny.

Instead what is left is a nice looking line of crimpy sidepulls, which kind of makes the route a bit cleaner and aesthetic.


Niall McNair20:58, 14 June 2010


Edited by another user.
Last edit: 15:53, 20 April 2010

Anyone been to Balmashanner recently. Is it dry? More spcifically is the Niche dry?

A heads up would be usefule to save a waster drive.



McB15:07, 20 April 2010

Did you go up Marcus?

Mark McGowan17:07, 26 April 2010

Mark, havent been down yet, heard through the grape vine it was wet a couple of weeks ago. Maybe head past to check it out on Monday. Wil let you know.


McB08:21, 30 April 2010


I went by today and it's all looking very dry. Only a few small seeps in places but all routes look a goer apart from Merchant.

The Niche is fine and looks very climbable, it'll just need a bit of traffic to get off all the winter crud.


Simie20216:46, 3 May 2010
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