Talk:Cambusbarron West Quarry

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Is there a consensus on the grade of the new sport route (the one by optimist chimney). I think when it was first done i heard F6c/6c+ mooted. Its since lost a lot of holds making it safer and better imo. I thought around F6c. What does everyone else think? Also does it have a name? -dom

Can someone do some checking, please?

I've just merged the routes that were under "New routes" into the guide from their descriptions. Can someone more familiar with the quarry these days check that I've got it right, please?

Here are the changes that I made.


Thread titleRepliesLast modified
Dark Side of the Spoon010:06, 10 June 2011
Arse on Stumps 011:30, 25 October 2010
Rock Fall on Scrubbers at Cambusbarron111:22, 25 October 2010

Dark Side of the Spoon

Isn't this the same as The Rock of Crack E2 5c FA 1996 in Lowland Outcrops?

KeithAlexander10:06, 10 June 2011

Arse on Stumps

Apparently the top crack has been seriously remodelled since the FA and is now easier and well protected. I'd suggest E2 5b - anyone else care to comment?

[moved to discussion section]

User:Fultonius - 200811:30, 25 October 2010

Rock Fall on Scrubbers at Cambusbarron

Just a little note to warn people of a rock fall at the open quarry at Cambusbarron today. The rock fall happened on an E1 called “Scrubbers”, this in between “Production Line” and “Cross in Oz”. A TV sized block fell from the last few meters and unfortunately hit Wendell Martin who was belaying at the time. Wendell was airlifted out of the quarry to the Glasgow Southern General. His climbing partner, Geoff, was leading at the time and somehow fell the full height of the quarry and was absolutely fine.

Please be careful at Cambusbarron, it’s a quarry and as such is shattered. A lot of the new low grade routes are loose and should be treated with maximum care.

I’ve been climbing at Cambusbarron for years and am not ashamed to admit that I occasionally lower down an anchor point from the top by a few metres, then lead the route and lower off after the best bit of climbing, before the top choss. This was particularly beneficial on Production Line and Anabolic Steroids.

I wish Wendell a quick recovery.

Keep it safe.


Steve20:32, 10 October 2010

Cheers for the report.

I think Chisel can be added to the list of routes it's worth setting up some sort of lower off for, the top is super loose.

Brendan20:02, 12 October 2010
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