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This is the page for chatting about anything to do with Scottish Climbing

Contents

Thread titleRepliesLast modified
Blantyre Towers Dry Tooling014:57, 26 February 2013
Turbinal Nose Access217:21, 4 May 2012
Hazard Descent on North Descent Route Poleny Crag At Dunkeld012:25, 19 April 2012
Routes at Upper Cave309:49, 18 April 2012
UK Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour012:58, 5 January 2012
E5 Onsight by Scottish Women012:03, 11 September 2011
auchinstarry quarry access013:35, 28 June 2011
Sport climbing in Switzerland011:47, 29 May 2011
Switzerland climbing011:42, 29 May 2011
climbing crags and birds nests 2011215:46, 5 May 2011
Scottish outdoor ed centre closures013:42, 2 February 2011
Climbing wall grades113:11, 24 January 2011
Calling Roger Webb!!!! ref Eiger Slides018:49, 16 January 2011
Removal of my blog223:23, 10 January 2011
50year old scottish 8a climbers010:58, 6 January 2011
Fun Bouldering Comp at EICA:Ratho on Sat 19th February.017:07, 5 January 2011
Weir's Way014:16, 5 January 2011
International Mountain Day 11th Dec010:56, 1 December 2010
Best Climbing\Bouldering DVD115:19, 26 November 2010
Business Opportunity - Indoor Climbing Wall018:36, 8 November 2010
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Blantyre Towers Dry Tooling

Recent dry tooling activity has been noted at Blantyre Towers. Come on guys! This place has been bolted for sport, there are plenty other similar places you could bolt for tooling if that's what you want to do.

JLS (talk)14:57, 26 February 2013

Turbinal Nose Access

The Forestry Commission have diggers doing their thing on the track leading up to Turbinal Nose, and a 'no access' sign at the parking place at the bottom of the track. Will see if I can find out more about what they are doing.

TomCE20:03, 21 April 2011

Work is apparently planned to be finished by the 20th of May, possibly a bit earlier.

TomCE20:03, 6 May 2011

It would seem that they have been dumping earth and rock down either side of the boulder which has affected the climbs either side of turbinal nose....could affect the problem if they continue to dump. Might be possible to terrace under turbinal with the new earth, anyone heading up should take a shovel! Did you just contact the forestry commission direct before tom or go through mcofs....

Punkpunk (talk)17:21, 4 May 2012
 
 

Hazard Descent on North Descent Route Poleny Crag At Dunkeld

A thread, Thread:Talk:Forums/Hazard Descent on North Descent Route Poleny Crag At Dunkeld, was moved from here to Talk:Polney. This move was made by Mark Somerville (Talk | contribs) on 19 April 2012 at 11:25.

Routes at Upper Cave

I was just having a look at the guide for upper cave on SCs which has left me a little confused regarding Ultima Necat. Im not sure if this is a result of the rebolting of the crag or just plain confusion. The guide suggests that you go to the 4th bolt of Marlene/HTs and then a more direct line to the beley above. Anyway on finnishing HTs the other day I had decided that I'd try this or Marlene, however there is another line of bolts out to the left which someone else told me was Ultima Necat i.e. clime to the 3rd bolt of HTs (the spike) and then go straight up. I wondered if someone can help clear this up.

Also im sure i have been told in the past but does anyone know the difference between Marlene Origional and Marlene?

Thanks

Angus

Angus14:20, 9 April 2012

I *think* Ultima Necat originally went up some shallow pockets to the right of the new set of bolts - the left-most - which is really a new line (though probably climbed by someone before, at least on top rope). You can still do the Original Ultima Necat by clipping the first (or first two?) new bolt(s) then climbing down to follow Marlene a bit further and then up the shallow pockets to the Marlene lower-off.

There are at least three different ways to go on Marlene/Hamish Teddy's... to get to the main diagonal crack (bolts described are, I think, correct as of April 2012!): i) From hands roughly level with the 2nd bolt traverse slightly right then up somewhere a little left of Silk. ii) From the downward pointing spike (from which most clip the 3rd bolt) traverse half a metre or so right on fingery but good pockets then straight up to the hold at the end of the "span move", see next. iii) From the downward point spike go up a couple of metres before spanning right then up to the 4th bolt.

Tony15:06, 11 April 2012
 

Hi Angus, I climbed the FA from what may now be the 4th Marlene bolt then ran it out to the belay of Marlene passing an angle peg with the fingery crux just as you moved away from Marlene.But it was bolted there after but just a little spaced, so I gave permission for Neil Shepard to retro bolt, but the line is more to the left and perhaps a little easier. But i would suggest Neil may have bolted the better less eliminate line. Neil's line is a nice 7b+ and worth a pop! enjoy :)

Mark McGowan10:05, 15 April 2012

Tony thanks for the help with that!

Mark thank you too! Managed to clip the chains on my second try of the route on Sunday with Amanda et al... Felt more like my style and just as enjoyable. I went via the new line of bolts btw... Had a go on marlena but having got straight the the marlene crack rapidly found out theres a bit of a sequence up that! New project!

Angus09:49, 18 April 2012
 
 

UK Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour

I’m very pleased to say the countdown have begun to the UK Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour and it kicks off in Edinburgh on Jan 27th The trailer looks amazing and I for one can’t wait to see the full films.

Check out the trailer here

Brixpoul12:58, 5 January 2012

E5 Onsight by Scottish Women

Looking for info for a MCOS article. Anyone know how many Scottish Women have onsighted E5, and how many have of these have onsighted E5 in Scotland? Done a bit of digging and not found any info so far??

The articles about Jess McCaskey, who onsighted her first E5 recently, Shapeshifter Direct at Rosehearty.

Any info greatly appreciated? Cheers

Beegsyboy12:03, 11 September 2011

auchinstarry quarry access

sadly things are moving at snails pace, but we are working behind the scenes. For an update of what is going on, have a look at http://www.mcofs.org.uk/news.asp

Mcofs13:35, 28 June 2011

Sport climbing in Switzerland

Hi we are flying out to Geneva shortly for a weeks sport climbing trip, we dont need anything above 7a but would rather not stick to polished beginner crags either!! Does anyone have any recommendations? Ideally we'd like a base ie a good cheap campsite within good distance of several crags. Any advice would be gratefully received! Cheers.

Disco-misfit11:47, 29 May 2011

Switzerland climbing

Hi, does anyone have any advice about sport climbing in switzerland? We're flying out to Geneva soon and intend to hire a car. Hoping to camp to keep costs down but any accomodation or crag recommendations would be gratefully received. Cheers!

Disco-misfit11:42, 29 May 2011

climbing crags and birds nests 2011

Until about the end of July this is the time when you have to be especially careful about potentially disturbing birds at their nests, or later on fledglings that are nearby and still dependent on their parents for food and hunting lessons. Climbers are mostly reliant on each other for info where the birds are this season. The MCofS is getting together a yearly rundown of the situation each year, and this should be out later this week hopefully. To do this we need reliable reports which we can then let you all know about through the website so you can plan your climbing trips. We need to know where there is a bird issue and where there is sometimes, but not this year. You will find the list of known possible issue locations on the second last page of http://www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/nesting%20birds%20&%20climbers%20with%20photos%20embedded%200710.pdf (apologies for the long address but wanted to give a direct link). Let us know at hebe(at)mcofs(dot)org(dot)uk. It’s all about us climbers getting out and having fun, but without the danger of getting into trouble with the police. If you want to know the legal details, check out the information on MCofS Advice or Access pages. Our access rights are dependent on conducting ourselves responsibly; taking responsibility for yourself, for the environment and respecting the interests of others. Have a great rock season and check back on the website through spring and early summer for info!

Mcofs14:38, 26 April 2011

Here is the latest update from the MCofS for 2011 rock season. If you plan to climb before end of July, then check out this vital information to help keep you within the law. This is the first year when this has been prepared in co-operation with bird groups making this the most reliable and comprehensive Scottish information to date - check out the alerts at www.mcofs.org.uk/advice-and-policies.asp

Mcofs15:30, 28 April 2011

just a wee reminder that this years definite info on nest on climbing crags has been updated twice this week - keep an eye on the MCofS site over the early summer

Mcofs15:46, 5 May 2011
 
 

Scottish outdoor ed centre closures

I'm trying to build up a picture of the number of outdoor ed centrs which have been closed by local authorities in Scotland in the last 20-30 years. Phoning every local authority is a bit impractical, so I'm asking people to throw names at me on here which I can check, just to get aoms eosrt of idea of the scale of things. Some such centres have been taken over and run by trusts, but I want to incloude those - the important thing is that they have bneen lost/gone from local authoirty control. Can anyone help? I know this isnlt strictly climbing but people on here should know a bit about this and I need info...

R

Richard Baynes13:42, 2 February 2011

Climbing wall grades

Today I suggested in the comments book at Ibrox climbing GCC to, "stop the corrupting the youth with V-grades", anonymously of course. The reply, equally anonymously, came, "LOL NO". Opinions please? I get the feeling V-grades are a cop out, to avoid confusion with routes. Surely it's better in the long run to sort out the confusion straight away with beginners rather than wait till they try and go climbing outside and get very very confused (as opposed to just slightly confused). It's not hard, Font 6c doesn't equal french 6c. I don't want people asking me "What's that in V-grades" - I'm not cleaning up the mess climbing walls are making! Joking there really, I don't mind helping people see the light.

I don't know what grades other walls are using.

Michael Lee19:18, 23 January 2011

The first quote I hear was that climbing wall grades were stiff to make it easier on our egos when they venture outside, eh?

WRT V grades: Their giving roped routes V grades???

DaveR13:11, 24 January 2011
 

Calling Roger Webb!!!! ref Eiger Slides

Hi dude

i was wondering if u had any slides digitized from our epic in 1992 on Nordwand?

hope u are well Roger

kind regards Mark

Mark McGowan18:49, 16 January 2011

Removal of my blog

Hi Mark S

Thanks for hosting my blog for the last year but i think its ran its course now and would ask if you could switch off the thingymajig that displays it on your site.

thanks again

kind regards Mark

Mark McGowan01:48, 2 January 2011

That's it removed. The posts should be off the front page soon.

Mark Somerville15:02, 6 January 2011

Thanks Mark

-)
Mark McGowan23:23, 10 January 2011
 
 

50year old scottish 8a climbers

Hi there wondering how many scottish climbers have climbed 8a while in there fiftys apart from rab carrington who was 60 when did his first one (great effort)

Douglas conacher10:58, 6 January 2011

Fun Bouldering Comp at EICA:Ratho on Sat 19th February.

Calling all boulderers (and all climbers that wouldn't necessarily call themselves boulderers but like to dabble from time to time),

We have organised a Fun Bouldering Competition on Saturday 19th February from 11am till 4pm. It will be open to all levels of climber with 4 different categories: Recreational, Advanced, Veteran and Junior. There will be a prize giving ceremony in the Raeburn Suite with some nice prizes from our kind sponsors, Tiso's from 4pm-7pm.

Prices will be £15 for adults and £10 for Juniors, this includes a free comp t-shirt and after comp beer (obviously no beer for juniors, sorry Calum!)

Problems will be set by Neil McGeachy, Gaz Vincent, Robbie Phillips and myself.

See you all there,

buz

Buzby7817:07, 5 January 2011

Weir's Way

Just discovered loads of episodes of Weir's Way are on You Tube. A great way to go arm chair boulder hunting and I found one with an interview with Jock Nimlin which was quite exciting.

Here's a link

http://www.youtube.com/show/weirsway

and the episode with Jock Nimlin is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgCMykTRLGc

Michael Lee14:16, 5 January 2011

International Mountain Day 11th Dec

So does this mean we get a day off to go play?

SusanG10:56, 1 December 2010

Best Climbing\Bouldering DVD

Looking for a bit of motivational watching - does anyone have any recommendations for good bouldering or sport climbing DVD's

Cheers Hendo

Craig H14:24, 22 November 2010

L’Étranger – 85 days in Font

Its pretty good for checking out a whole grade range of problems, and its free at unclesomebody.com

Bagger15:19, 26 November 2010
 

Business Opportunity - Indoor Climbing Wall

Unbelievable Business Opportunity - Fully Operational Indoor Climbing Wall for immediate sale in the Mountain Town of Aviemore.

Prospective buyers must be passionate climbers who are astute, sharp and focussed business individuals. A trading history would be useful to ensure a good long term future for the wall.

Zero Capital outlay - minimum personal investment - This is once in a lifetime opportunity for the right person.

Interested parties should call 07719 309214 for more information - Time wasters will not be tolerated.

Unbelievable price for a quick sale.

Scott Muir118:36, 8 November 2010
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