Talk:Hardest Scottish Trad Routes

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General Disscussion

Copied somemore of Daves routes from the DB, maybe we dont want descriptions too, rather a definate list! ??? Delete the desc if you feel you need too. --Dredpath 16:37, 23 May 2006 (BST)

Is it not Nandralone thats the E8 6c at Cambusbarron, I thought Anabolic Steriods was E6 somthing? -- Craig H

I think Anabolic Steroids used to get E7, but dropped after more cleaning. Nandralone is E8 as far as I know (it's savage!). -- Mark Somerville 17:33, 23 May 2006 (BST)

I've edited my own list, its too hard to read a list with descriptions in. --Dredpath 18:00, 23 May 2006 (BST)

how did that fun boy three song go? 'the more that i read, the less i believe...' Gr 22:48, 23 May 2006 (BST)


should also mention whether route still unrepeatedGr 16:36, 24 May 2006 (BST)

Anyone remember the name of that long E7 at Hoy? Loadsa pitches and the crux was 8a on pitch 12 or something bonkers. -- Mark Somerville 18:17, 24 May 2006 (BST)

There was an VS that took 22hrs to climb I remember. --Dredpath 12:54, 2 June 2006 (BST)

long hope route E7 6c john arran? Gr 18:47, 24 May 2006 (BST)

That's the one gr! -- Mark Somerville 18:54, 24 May 2006 (BST)

is there an e7 in red hole area aberdeen seacliffs? julian lines? I seem to remember reading something in the mags a while ago Gr 00:12, 25 May 2006 (BST)

Yeah, Julian Lines climbed Shere Khan E7 6c, DWS! (don't think it was a 1st ascent though) Craig H 09:35, 25 May 2006 (BST)

Are Marocheira E8 6a, 6c, 6b and The Great Escape E8 ? one and the same route? Gr 16:31, 25 May 2006 (BST)

I think they start and finish at different points, but have the same middle pitch Craig H 16:40, 25 May 2006 (BST)

Dont know why the Si O'conor routes are listed. Has the guy actually climbed them. Do they even exist. I doubt it! Lets chop them from the list and give credit to the guys that actually go climbing and dont just dream about it!

How about doing some arrangement by difficulty now! --Dredpath 15:39, 6 June 2006 (BST)

Contents

Thread titleRepliesLast modified
Dalriada718:11, 31 December 2010
Symbiosis213:21, 29 November 2010
  • Dalriada E8 6b
    The Cobbler
    G.Latter(1995) confirmed at E6 by D. Birkett and D. MacLeod

but yet to be onsighted? Why the obsession with downgrading this route?

unknown - moved in from list13:31, 29 November 2010

Presumably because it was "confirmed at E6 by D. Birkett and D. MacLeod"

Mark Somerville 14:52, 6 June 2006 (BST)13:34, 29 November 2010

Stand beneath that overhang with less than a quarter tonne of steelies and ask yourself is this route really E6? Have been told its F7b+ climbing on good holds and quite good protection. A likely E6 then... Note the Gathering is F7b+ climbing and it gets E8? No pro though

--Dredpath 15:18, 6 June 2006 (BST)13:36, 29 November 2010
 

Mr Latter, who is no stranger to E6's, gave it E8 and reckoned 7c+ climbing. Niall couldn't onsight it the same year he onsighted other E7's and 8a's, Dave McLeod didn't on sight it, dunno about Dave Birkett but they should all be capable at this grade. I reckon it's about E6 to tie into a rope underneath it. Slightly surprising to see it at number 59 on a list with stuff like Love Buzz and Craig's Wall 20 places higher!

unknown13:39, 29 November 2010
 

It is E6, miles easier than Love Buzz and Craigs Wall (and Wild Country for that matter). I remember thinking as I did the crux move "this is similar to but way easier than Gorilla at Dumby!" F7b clip up. I could still be an E8 if someone did it without any hammered pro. If it's E8 then Rhapsody is E14. Standing beneath a route is not a good method of grading it, climbing it is better! Niall is an awesome onsighter but hasn't onsighted E7.

Dave MacLeod13:40, 29 November 2010
Edited by author.
Last edit: 13:41, 29 November 2010

Adding my opinion here cos I cant log on the forums in my user name for some reason at the mo which has been very frustrating all day...: I would LOVE this route to be E7, but over the years since doing it, I have come to think either hard E6 or barely E6/7. I did say at the time "def E7" but maybe that's my ego talking. Maybe as time goes on in my memory it seems to be gettting easier? French 7b climbing cos there are hard sections but as Dave says, two no hands rest. It is of similar standard of difficulty to Romantic Reality but obviously totally different climbing. I think once the pegs start falling out it will become E7 and then E8 and then it will get bolted in a 150 years time and climbers will teleport to the base of it rather than doing the 2 hour walk in...ummm, anyway.

I have not onsighted E7 yet (just some pissy little thing in yorkshire which isnt a "proper" E7) and it is likely to be some years before I do, i was not onsighting 8a the same year as doing Dalriada but had just broken into the 7c+ range but remember it feeling just as pumpy and hard as Mirage 7c+ at Ceuse but that's pegs for you.

I think in the end it should be confirmed by someone who has onsighted it and has plenty of experience with E6s and E7s; all the ascents (and Birkett's?) have been flawed in some way or other that makes it difficult to judge the right grade of it, but where would we climbers be if it wasnt for discussions like these?

Love, Niall

Niall (2006)13:41, 29 November 2010

I agree with Niall

It should be graded for on-sight by who ever on sights the route. On sighting is so much harder than other styles and so the on-sight grade could perhaps be left open for when it gets done. It may of course had already been done..who knows.

...just a thought.

cheers Mark

Mark McGowan16:43, 30 November 2010

Did Mr Tweedley not think E7 after spending a lot of time on it?

ColinMoody18:11, 31 December 2010
 
 
 
 
 

I'm not sure about the 1st on Symbiosis, I think Dave may have got the 3rd ascent after Dave Birkett getting the 2nd. Is this a Cubby route?

Craig H 10:52, 26 May 2006 (BST)13:17, 29 November 2010

wasn't symbiosis on of those nonsense 'both led' 1st ascents - cubby and stork? so think it was cubby 1st, stork 2nd , birkett 3rd and dumby 4th

Gr 12:15, 26 May 2006 (BST)13:19, 29 November 2010

Yes Macrocheira is not a route since it was done by Dunne before me. I haven't done Symbiosis. I amended and added some more routes. dmac.

Dave MacLeod 21:44, 27 May 200613:21, 29 November 2010
 
 
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