Talk:Moy Rock

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The below was added to the Breakdown Description September 2009 - main page updated to reflect Susan Guest


Breakdown (50m) E3/4 5B This route has been added since the others were bolted. It climbs the obvious flake/ crack right of the Fly. 60m ropes required to reach a decent belay at the top. Climb rightwards along easy ramp from base of the Fly to gain the crack, follow this steeply and boldly until it eases and fades, from its top traverse rightwards past a tottering block to an easier exit. Take a large rack and don't fall off! Interesting climbing throughout but never harder than 5B.(poorly protected in several places,lots of gear but very suspicious rock!)

This route was first done in 1978 and called Magnificrack; it is on page 388 of Northern Highlands Central and led by John Mackenzie with Richard McHardy and Mike Birch seconding. A film (on Super 8) was made of the ascent. It was graded E3 5b and has had no known second ascent until now. NB.Please do not place any bolts too near this route as they will detract from its exciting nature.


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