Talk:Sport climbing

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Mike has been very busy putting guides on the Wiki :) This should make keeping the guides up to date much easier.


Thread titleRepliesLast modified
Red Point Ethics regarding Pre clips beyond 1st or 2nd bolts1223:53, 26 December 2010
New sports crags in Scotland for Bolting?713:24, 23 May 2010

Red Point Ethics regarding Pre clips beyond 1st or 2nd bolts

Edited by another user.
Last edit: 00:50, 5 June 2010

(even if climbed up and clipped and down climbed)

when does it become a yoyo! and not a red point. should it be named a 'top-point' or a 'yo-point'

Mark McGowan21:05, 2 June 2010
Edited by 2 users.
Last edit: 16:00, 4 June 2010

Interesting point - if it was a trad route you could climb right up to the finish and if you manage to downclimb completely to the floor then it's still one continuous attempt.

On a sport route, I'd be happy calling it a redpoint if I managed to climb up, clip 3 bolts, downclimb, rest then climb to the top - certainly better than using a clip-stick from the ground. I'm also quite happy to pre-clip the frst bolt or 2 if it's a dodgy start - each to their own.

In the end of the day, if you're not claiming first ascents or trying to keep the climbing rags and sponsors happy, then just climb it however you're happy.

No point breaking an ankle on a sport route....

Fultonius22:22, 2 June 2010

Thanks Fultonius I agree but don't think sponsors or rags play any part in this - its more just about the personal achievement and climbing routes in a way that is benchmarked as the norm (for me that is). Not to complete it in that way seems futile but that's just how I saw things. Its a game and the game has some rules that are respected and that's what makes climbing special for me.

Climbers who are sponsored probably think more of their personal climbing performance and ethics than that of their sponsor (though there are always exceptions). Its a shit fest that people point to sponsors as a devil in this but the reality is that most professional climbers are likely driven the hardest by their own high standards. That's what makes them great climbers... I think?

Mark McGowan23:40, 2 June 2010

I dont like that ethic about downclimbing from anywhere so long as you dont wieght the rope. My argument is thus:

For sport routes, you need to lead to get the tick. That means clipping the rope as you climb. If you down climb to the ground you are no longer climbing so no longer "clipping the rope as you climb". Hence no longer leading, hence no tick. Preclip for safety only.

Agree though, each to their own, but I think allys point about the mags and sponsers is if you shout out about doing a route with dodgy ethics then you can expect to get slagged.

Michael Lee12:28, 3 June 2010

The bottom line is, as long as you do it in a fashion you're happy with then you've doen it the right way for you.

If pre-clipping or downclimbing feels like cheating, for you, then to be happy with your ascent you're gonna have to start at the bottom and clip every clip. (Although, almost no-one has any problem with pre-clipping the first bolt)

My personal rules are:

Trad - can up and downclimb as much as I want and it still counts as an onsight; however, every time I touch the ground it takes something awayf from the ascent. I prefer to climb upwards in one push.

Sport - I'll happily pre-clip the first or second bolt if the start is tricky and the route is long. If it's a 4 bolt route, pre-clipping the second bolt is taking the piss a little.

Fultonius12:40, 3 June 2010

My angst with all this is the 2nd bolt on Awaken 7c+ at Dumbuck. I can clip the first and struggle to clip 2nd on lead as the move is dynamic but not a complete ground fall (i hope)... But the 2nd bolt on Sufferance 8a at Dumby is a ground fall so, im cool with that.. tricky...

Mark McGowan14:40, 3 June 2010

Surly its fine to have all the clips in place for a redpoint. You can even have them in for a pink point (thats the hole idea)

Just be honest on what you did., 26 December 2010

New sports crags in Scotland for Bolting?

Edited by another user.
Last edit: 16:58, 11 May 2010

I want to bolt a beast of a sports crag/area in Scotland that will yield 30 great routes from 6a to 9a ... where should we go?

Looking for quality rock that is conducive to good steep sports routes...

Mark McGowan16:07, 10 May 2010

err, have you tried Spain?

It might be easier to ask where we know there aren't good sport climbing crags and go to the places people haven't checked?

Michael Lee17:37, 11 May 2010

Have you been to the Anvil?

TomCE19:38, 11 May 2010

No yet. but definitely going . looks great..

Mark McGowan20:31, 11 May 2010
Edited by 0 users.
Last edit: 18:07, 14 May 2010

Hey Mark, you cant just come back after a lay off like that and go right to the head of the queue! Get in an orderly line laddie I have been waiting for one of these for ages, since my last one got reduced in size due to "rare lichens" (The Camel in case you are wondering....) though there are a couple of potentials up here in the NE....!

User:neil shepherd18:07, 14 May 2010

Get that drill reved up! Anyone managed to rebolt ultima necat dude?

Mark McGowan08:36, 15 May 2010
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