The Brack

The Brack is the north-facing mica-schist Crag high on the south side of Glen Croe.

Directions and Approach

From the Forestry Commission visitor centre at Ardgarten (the bus will drop passengers off here and there is also ample parking) cross the bridge and turn right to walk up the forestry track going up the glen to the west. After about 15 minutes turn up the signposted path to the Brack that goes steeply up the hill through the trees by the east side of a burn. After 5-10 minutes (depending on how fast you walk) the first boulders at the top of the trees are reached. Above the stile another 5-10 minutes takes you across the hillside above the trees to the Kennedy Boulder. The big crag on the Brack and many other boulders below it can be seen higher up.

Problems

Si O'Conor reported 2 lines at over 7c+ which must be regarded as merely descriptive, no-one has found the boulders or seen proof of onsight ascents from 2004. No chalk, no brushing, no photos... they're best left out until done or proven climbed, or if said climber assumes some responsibility.

Ebb & Flow Font 7c+*
Dave MacLeod (Sep 2003)
A more direct entry to 'the Hotline'. SS one metre to the left of the quartz of Hotline, LH low but good sidepull, RH sharp undercut, RF toe hook. Get established and powerfully span to the diagonal jug on the Hotline. Finish up this.

Thermo-static Font 7c*
Dave MacLeod (Sep 2003)
Block leaning against Bivvy boulder. Climb the slanting arete facing the Kennedy boulder from a SS on low holds. Big pinches and slopers.

Stilton Font 6a**
Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (00-09-2003)
5c. 20m uphill from the right end of the Kennedy boulder. From a sit-start climb the obvious overhanging lip to the left arete. Pull over on good holds.

Mould Font 6a+**
Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (00-09-2003)
6a. On the same boulder as stilton, sit-start from good crimps on the centre of the face and climb straight over the bulge to a tricky finnish.

Face Full of Bush Font 6b***
Anthony Bakern (00-09-2003)
On the small boulder 20m right of the bivvy boulder. From a sit-start on a sloping hold at the left end of the steep face, make a reachy move to a pocket. Climb straight up and over the highest point on the boulder.

Shallow Pockets Font 5+
Anthony Baker (00-09-2003)
On the same boulder as Face Full of Bush. From two small pockets on the centre of the face make a lunge for the top!

Tickle Him! Font 4+
Anthony Baker (Sep 2003)
On the same boulder as Face Full of Bush. Traverse the lip from the right end of the boulder to finnish up Shallow pockets.

No Bellyflop Required Font 4c***
Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (00-09-2003)
On the large boulder 30m down and to the right of the bivvy boulder. Climb the obvious smooth left side of the arete to an exposed sloping finish.

Wimp Font 5+*
Dominic Kehoe (Sep 2003)
On the same boulder as No Bellyflop Required, just to the right climb straight up on brittle rock to a sharp finish.

Sharp Font 4+* 00-09-2003 Dominic Kehoe 5a. Traverse along the lip from right to left and finsh up Wimp.

Un-named Font 3
Dominic Kehoe (sep 2003)
On the west face of the same boulder as Wimp, climb the center obvious mossy slab to the top.

Brain Drain Font 7b**
Michael Tweedley (00-09-2002)
ss from quartz block, straight up to rail of Vietnam and to lip then make desperate mantel out using small side pull,

Bivvy Boulder

Broken Home Font 6a*
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
At the bivvy boulder is a obvious sharp arete. Climb this.

The Kennedy Boulder

Happy Birthday Mr President Font 7c*
Dave MacLeod (Sep 2002)
This powerful problem takes the obvious challenge right of Assassin. Sit start at the good undercuts. Without using the boss on the problem just to the left, launch upwards to the crozzly two-handed finger jug (aggression useful). Match this and make a further tricky move to gain slopers directly above and the top.

Lookin Down a Barrel Font 6c
Dave MacLeod (Sep 2002)
Sit start just left(?) of Pretty in pink at a rib. Heelhook the rib and make a big lock to gain a letterbox on the lip, up and left. Finish leftwards as for Brinkmanship.

Bullit Font 7a**
Stephen Richardson (00-09-2002)
Start about 5 right of Conspiracy in an obvious groove. Traverse leftwards along the lip on petite crimps until you reach a groove to the left of Conspiracy. Then rock over on to the slab, that is if you have any oomph left! Interesting outing and named after the obscene amounts of falls taken due to exploding crimps! (More holds fell off 2006 JW but still doable)

Brains, Shoulders, Knees and Toes Font 6a**
Stephen Richardson (00-09-2002)

14. Brain Drain Font 7bTake the blank slab face of the Kennedy boulder looking out across the glen. Get up on to the middle section of the slab (considerable amount a knee action in first ascent) and then teeter up the middle of the slab. Falling would not be a pleasant experience, however a great bold route.

The Nuclear Button Font 7c+***
Dave MacLeod (00-09-2002)
Start in the quartz slopers as for The Hotline. climb directly with difficulty to the obvious hollow block. Get psyched and dyno for the top. Frustrating. The dyno from standing is a good problem in itself at Font 7a+

Bullet in Your Head Font 7b+*
Dave MacLeod (00-09-2002)
This varied problem takes the obvious curving line in the centre of the back roof on the Kennedy Boulder. Sit start at a dubious two finger pocket. A big lock from this gains the slot in the crack and leads to a tenuous finish on slopers.

Assassin Direct Font 6c*
'Dave MacLeod (00-09-2002 )
Climb Assassin until below a hole in the wall. Move up and left on smaller holds to gain a left facing groove with a good finishing hold.

The Hotline Font 7c+**
Dave MacLeod (00-08-2002)
Kennedy Boulder. Near the left end of the front face is a quartz intrusion low down. Start sitting with hands in the quartz. Gain a slopey crimp directly above then make a desperate slap left to diagonal jugs. If you hold the Kung Fu, match the jug and make a big but easier dyno for the lip jugs and rock over.

Trigger Happy Font 7b***
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
To the left of OH SO JACkIE OH is a obvious line up flakes and pockets. Use flake to gain press and then make painful pocket moves to get sloper on lip.

Cavalcade Font 7a**
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
As for Trigger Happy but cross into flakey press and follow good holds leftwards to flake. Chuck for lip and lunge for good hold. (Harder now holds have broken, sorry Mike, me too fat JW 2007)

Pretty in Pink Font 6a
'Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
To the right of Brinkmanship is a obvious small line. Starting at Quartz gain lip and exit right to big hold on slab.

Assassin Font 6b**
Michael Tweedley (00-07-2002)
On Kennedy boulder on front face at the left hand side. Obvious good holds to lip then weird rockover.

Conspiracy Font 6c+*
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
On right frontal face is a wee hanging bulge. SS From crimps to hand rail then boost to jugs and mantel out.

Lone Gunman Font 6c*
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
At the back of Kennedy boulder is a 60 degree roof. On right side is obvious layback feature. SS Then gain quartz pocket and a couple of slopers lead to good holds. Mantle out.

The Grassy Knoll Font 6a*
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
On the roof at back of Kennedy boulder on the left hand side. SS On jugs go left and make tricky rockover on lip to finish.

Oswald Font 6b**
Michael Tweedley (00-08-2002)
If looking out to Glen Croe from Kennedy boulder. Go right heading towards approach path. There is a sheild of rock that leans onto another boulder. SS Good holds climb the steep wall untill possible to gain holds on lip. Lunge for a two handed jug then top out.

So Jackie O Font 7b**
Dave MacLeod (00-08-2002)
Sit start just left of Conspiracy below some undercuts. pull up on the undercuts and make a hard stretch to a distant sloper. Match this and move right past a dubious jug and finishing rockover. Powerful.

Brinkmanship Font 7b**
Dave MacLeod (00-08-2002)
This problem climbs the attractive 50 degree roof right of Conspiracy. Sit start in the centre of the roof. use thin edges to make a hard reach to a slopey edge on the lip. gain another sloper just above and move right to a jug. rock up and make a long reach up and left to an inverted jug. Finish leftwards.

Vietnam Font 6c *
????
The back wall of the boulder has a low cave roof. This problem takes the central hanging rail left to a rock out to the obvious cleaned flake. Often wet. ('Brain Drain' is a direct version at 7b)