The Hawkcraig
From ScottishClimbs
The Hawkcraig is an area of seacliffs at Aberdour. It is perhaps the easiest of the trad venues near Edinburgh to access via public transport, and also has decent car parking.
The grade spread is typically Severe to HVS, with a couple of short or loose low e-grade routes as well. The crag classic is Pain Pillar VS 4c, the pillar at the west end of the crag (perhaps because its easy to take a fine photograph of it, leaving you framed against the sky). Other crag favourites include Asinine, Gaucho and Gizmo.
Contents |
Access
Most of the climbing is tidal, so best to check the tide charts before you go. The link moves a bit, but the BBC site is good for this; select weather, coast and sea, tide tables. The area to check is Leith, Aberdour is opposite, so follows the same times.
Directions & Approach
An easy walk from Aberdour Train station.
Descent
- A Moderate downclimb at the west end of the crag (overlooking hotel).
- By abseil
- Walk round and along the beach
The Climbing
Climbs are described from left to right
Fish Head Arete 20m VD *
1965
There then follow a number of shorter climbs which proceed only to the midway terrace, although they can be finished.
Fish Head Wall 10m VD
1965
Finishes on the ledge. There is also a direct finish at Severe involving a mantelshelf
Ugh! 8m HS *
1965
Sacrilege 8m VS 5a
1965
Given HVS in some places
Eech 8m VS 4c
1965
Squirrel Slab 12m VS 5a *
1965
Weasel Wall 12m E2 5c
1975
Garlic Bread E2 6a?
Pizza E2 5c?
Cranium Crack 20m VS 4c, 4c *
1965
Belay at the Terrace
Conquistador Crack 7m VS 5a *
1965
The Groper 7m VS 5a
1965
Stomach Ache 7m VS 4b *
1965
The Beast 7m HS 4c
Gismo 20m VS 4c*
1965
Variation HVS 5a *
Pain Pillar 25m VS 4c ***
1965
The classic of the crag. variation VS 5a ***
Gaucho 25m HVS 5a **
1965
Also variation at HVS 5a
Psylocible 25m E2 5a
1990
Rebel's Groove 25m VS 4c *
1965
Saki 25m VS 4c *
1965
There a flake to the right of Saki, which may be a useful starting point, should a high tide necessitate an ab. in.
Slack Alice 20m HS
Starts on left of flake. The name may be a clue to the state of the rock
Brutus 20m HS
1965
Torment 20m HS'
1965
The Dwarf 20m HVS 5a
Guano 20m HVS 5a/b **
1965
Guano Variation E2 5b
Ganja VD
1965
The Chimney 20m VD
1965
Direct Finish Severe
Chimney Arete 20m VD
1965
Asinine 20m VS 5a **
1970
The Arete 20m E1 5b*
1975
The Lilly 20m S **
1965
Gunga Din 20m S *
1965
Crusader 20m HS
1965
Saracen 20m VS 4c *
1965
Toerag's Wall 15m Severe
1965
(Direct Start) VS 5a *
Hip Replacement E1 5b
Diptera 15m VS 4c
1965
Escalator 15m VD *
1965
Tink 15m Severe
1965
Hallelujah Wall 15m HS *
1965
The Whang 12m VD *
1965
Flake and Wall 12m Severe *
1965
Shadow Corner 10m Severe
1965
Destiny Groove 10m Severe *
1965
The Dreeping Beak E1 5c
Urmi 10m VS 4c *
1965
Maureen 10m Severe
1965
Welly Wall VD
1965
Serendipity 10m HVS 5a
1983
Eureka 10m VS 5a *
1965
Where Were You? 10m E2 5b
1990
Termination VS 4c
1965
Girdles
The Hawkcraig offer both a high and a low girdle.
The Low Girdle 80m VS 4c *
J Knight. 1965
the Hawkcraigs answer to DWS
The High Girdle 70m HVS 5b *
A McKeith. 1965
- 10m 4c -
- 20m 4b -
- 20m 5b -
- 20m 4b -
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