The Hawkcraig

The Hawkcraig is an area of seacliffs at Aberdour. It is perhaps the easiest of the trad venues near Edinburgh to access via public transport, and also has decent car parking.

The grade spread is typically Severe to HVS, with a couple of short or loose low e-grade routes as well. The crag classic is Pain Pillar VS 4c, the pillar at the west end of the crag (perhaps because its easy to take a fine photograph of it, leaving you framed against the sky). Other crag favourites include Asinine, Gaucho and Gizmo.

Access

Most of the climbing is tidal, so best to check the tide charts before you go. The link moves a bit, but the BBC site is good for this; select weather, coast and sea, tide tables. The area to check is Leith, Aberdour is opposite, so follows the same times.

Directions & Approach

An easy walk from Aberdour Train station.

Descent

• A Moderate downclimb at the west end of the crag (overlooking hotel).
• By abseil
• Walk round and along the beach

The Climbing

Climbs are described from left to right

Fish Head Arete 20m VD *
1965

There then follow a number of shorter climbs which proceed only to the midway terrace, although they can be finished.

Fish Head Wall 10m VD
1965
Finishes on the ledge. There is also a direct finish at Severe involving a mantelshelf

Ugh! 8m HS *
1965

Sacrilege 8m VS 5a
1965
Given HVS in some places

Eech 8m VS 4c
1965

Squirrel Slab 12m VS 5a *
1965

Weasel Wall 12m E2 5c
1975

Garlic Bread E2 6a?

Pizza E2 5c?

Cranium Crack 20m VS 4c, 4c *
1965
Belay at the Terrace

Conquistador Crack 7m VS 5a *
1965

The Groper 7m VS 5a
1965

Stomach Ache 7m VS 4b *
1965

The Beast 7m HS 4c

Gismo 20m VS 4c*
1965
Variation HVS 5a *

Pain Pillar 25m VS 4c ***
1965
The classic of the crag. variation VS 5a ***

Gaucho 25m HVS 5a **
1965
Also variation at HVS 5a

Psylocible 25m E2 5a
1990

Rebel's Groove 25m VS 4c *
1965

Saki 25m VS 4c *
1965

There a flake to the right of Saki, which may be a useful starting point, should a high tide necessitate an ab. in.

Slack Alice 20m HS
Starts on left of flake. The name may be a clue to the state of the rock

Brutus 20m HS
1965

Torment 20m HS'
1965

The Dwarf 20m HVS 5a

Guano 20m HVS 5a/b **
1965
Guano Variation E2 5b

Ganja VD
1965

The Chimney 20m VD
1965
Direct Finish Severe

Chimney Arete 20m VD
1965

Asinine 20m VS 5a **
1970

The Arete 20m E1 5b*
1975

The Lilly 20m S **
1965

Gunga Din 20m S *
1965

Crusader 20m HS
1965

Saracen 20m VS 4c * 1965

Toerag's Wall 15m Severe
1965

(Direct Start) VS 5a *

Hip Replacement E1 5b

Diptera 15m VS 4c 1965

Escalator 15m VD *
1965

Tink 15m Severe
1965

Hallelujah Wall 15m HS *
1965

The Whang 12m VD *
1965

Flake and Wall 12m Severe *
1965

Shadow Corner 10m Severe
1965

Destiny Groove 10m Severe *
1965

The Dreeping Beak E1 5c

Urmi 10m VS 4c *
1965

Maureen 10m Severe
1965

Welly Wall VD
1965

Serendipity 10m HVS 5a
1983

Eureka 10m VS 5a *
1965

Where Were You? 10m E2 5b
1990

Termination VS 4c
1965

Girdles

The Hawkcraig offer both a high and a low girdle.

The Low Girdle 80m VS 4c *
J Knight. 1965
the Hawkcraigs answer to DWS

The High Girdle 70m HVS 5b *
A McKeith. 1965

• 10m 4c -
• 20m 4b -
• 20m 5b -
• 20m 4b -