Routes at Upper Cave

From ScottishClimbs

Jump to: navigation, search

I was just having a look at the guide for upper cave on SCs which has left me a little confused regarding Ultima Necat. Im not sure if this is a result of the rebolting of the crag or just plain confusion. The guide suggests that you go to the 4th bolt of Marlene/HTs and then a more direct line to the beley above. Anyway on finnishing HTs the other day I had decided that I'd try this or Marlene, however there is another line of bolts out to the left which someone else told me was Ultima Necat i.e. clime to the 3rd bolt of HTs (the spike) and then go straight up. I wondered if someone can help clear this up.

Also im sure i have been told in the past but does anyone know the difference between Marlene Origional and Marlene?



Angus14:20, 9 April 2012

I *think* Ultima Necat originally went up some shallow pockets to the right of the new set of bolts - the left-most - which is really a new line (though probably climbed by someone before, at least on top rope). You can still do the Original Ultima Necat by clipping the first (or first two?) new bolt(s) then climbing down to follow Marlene a bit further and then up the shallow pockets to the Marlene lower-off.

There are at least three different ways to go on Marlene/Hamish Teddy's... to get to the main diagonal crack (bolts described are, I think, correct as of April 2012!): i) From hands roughly level with the 2nd bolt traverse slightly right then up somewhere a little left of Silk. ii) From the downward pointing spike (from which most clip the 3rd bolt) traverse half a metre or so right on fingery but good pockets then straight up to the hold at the end of the "span move", see next. iii) From the downward point spike go up a couple of metres before spanning right then up to the 4th bolt.

Tony15:06, 11 April 2012

Hi Angus, I climbed the FA from what may now be the 4th Marlene bolt then ran it out to the belay of Marlene passing an angle peg with the fingery crux just as you moved away from Marlene.But it was bolted there after but just a little spaced, so I gave permission for Neil Shepard to retro bolt, but the line is more to the left and perhaps a little easier. But i would suggest Neil may have bolted the better less eliminate line. Neil's line is a nice 7b+ and worth a pop! enjoy :)

Mark McGowan10:05, 15 April 2012

Tony thanks for the help with that!

Mark thank you too! Managed to clip the chains on my second try of the route on Sunday with Amanda et al... Felt more like my style and just as enjoyable. I went via the new line of bolts btw... Had a go on marlena but having got straight the the marlene crack rapidly found out theres a bit of a sequence up that! New project!

Angus09:49, 18 April 2012
Personal tools