Routes at Upper Cave

From ScottishClimbs

Fragment of a discussion from Talk:Forums
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I *think* Ultima Necat originally went up some shallow pockets to the right of the new set of bolts - the left-most - which is really a new line (though probably climbed by someone before, at least on top rope). You can still do the Original Ultima Necat by clipping the first (or first two?) new bolt(s) then climbing down to follow Marlene a bit further and then up the shallow pockets to the Marlene lower-off.

There are at least three different ways to go on Marlene/Hamish Teddy's... to get to the main diagonal crack (bolts described are, I think, correct as of April 2012!): i) From hands roughly level with the 2nd bolt traverse slightly right then up somewhere a little left of Silk. ii) From the downward pointing spike (from which most clip the 3rd bolt) traverse half a metre or so right on fingery but good pockets then straight up to the hold at the end of the "span move", see next. iii) From the downward point spike go up a couple of metres before spanning right then up to the 4th bolt.

Tony15:06, 11 April 2012
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