Tom Riach
From ScottishClimbs
Near Inverness is Tom Riach boulder, a large glacial erratic composed of a solid conglomerate. It provides good fingery problems with some excellent landings and generally friendly top outs. The problems are open to variations because of the nature of the rock.
Directions
Approaching from Inverness on the Culloden Moor road turn right after the battlefield. Continue straight across at the crossroads, downhill then back up under the Nairn Railway Viaduct. At the junction at the top of the hill turn left and park on the north side of the road after 1 mile (there is a cycle route signpost on the opposite side of the road to the parking).
From the Inverness end of the layby walk down hill on a rough forest track (it is there, honest). After 30m take the left fork and continue downhill to a fallen tree across the track. Pass the tree on the right and head straight on to the boulder (3 mins). Grid reference 779455.
Problems
1. East Arete V0-
2. V0
First line right of arête.
3. V0+
4. Eclipse V2
The central part of the steepest section of the face by a line of weakness and a sharp finger hold.
5. The Dark Side V1
Wall just left of North Buttress.
6. North Buttress V0+.
The north arête. Start on its right.
7. Grapeshot V2
A rightward trending line just right of the arête.
8. The Long Riach V2+
The longest line on the face.
9. Appin Colours V2
Start with two hands on an inset boulder and head for the top.
10. Drainpipe Scoop V0
A line of better holds left of The Bulge.
11. The Bulge V3
The bulge left of West Arete.
12. West Arete V1+
Sitting start V2.
13. Butcher Left Hand V4
Starting from a large pocket at chest height aim for a sloper on top of a large inset block then straight up.
14. The Butcher V3
Start from the pocket at chest height and climb straight up by a layaway then a pocket/good hold.
15. Rathole V2+
Climb up using the left of two holes at 3m. (V3 without the hole).
15.5. Blackhole V4
Climb up between the two holes at 3m, using neither of them.
16. Mousehole V3+
Climb up using the right of two holes at 3m
17. Rabbit Run V2
Using the arête to start and finish climb the wall left of the arête.
18. South Arete Right V0+
Climb the slabby right side of the arête.
Traverses
South West Face V5
Start at the South Arete and finish on the jug on the West Arete. Climb the West Arete for a satisfying finish.
North East Face V3
Traverse from right to left.
South East Face V0
Traverse easily from left to right at a low level with an awkward pull past a pocket to finish.
