Upper Cave Crag

Dunkeld's Upper Cave Crag contains some of Scotlands finest sport routes

History

The Marlene (Marlina) Wall has been the centre of some controversy in the past over the placement of bolts on what is mainly a traditional crag. Attempts to place bolts on other areas of the crag are unacceptable!

In the summer of 2009, the sport wall had it's bolts removed by an unknown assailant, but was re bolted shortly after.

Sinners Wall

These routes are located on a smaller crag to the left of the main crag, seen above from the approach path.

Six Fours les Plage 6b
George Ridge (1995)

Fear of the Dark 6b
George Ridge (1995)

Father Figure 6b+
George Ridge (1995)

All are short and of limited merit.

Cave Lefthand - The Ramp to the Sport Wall

Voie de l'Amie E3 5c **

Hang Out E2 5b **

Lady Charlotte E5 6a ***

Lady Charlotte Direct E5 6b ***

Ratcatcher E3 5b **

In Loving Memory E6 6b *

Morbidezza E5 6a/6b *

Warfarin E2 5c, 5b **

Rat Race E4 6a ***

Sport Wall

This small section of rock gives some excellent sport climbing on excellent schist.

Ultima Necat F7b+
M.McGowan (1987)
Starting up Marlina, climb more directly to its belay from the 4th bolt on this route past another bolt above. Slightly run-out but safe and as good as the other routes on the wall.

Marlene F7c ***
D.Cuthbertson (1986)
Starting up the lefthand line of bolts climb the wall past a difficult start. Follow pockets and edges up and rightwards to reach a diagonal crack. Follow the crack leftwards with increasing difficulty to a LO.

Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure F7b+ ***
D.McCallum (1992)
On reaching the base of the diagonal crack on Marlina continue upwards on sloping holds up the arete.

???? F8a - Bolts currently removed
An eliminate line which climbs directly between Marlina and Silk Purse. Slightly detracts from the original lines.

Silk Purse F7c+ ***
G.Livingston (1987)
Starting up the righthand line of bolts, climb the wall on small edges trending slightly leftwards to reach the crack on Marlina. Follow the crack for a few metres before climbing more directly up the wall above on sloping sidepulls.

Silk Teddies F7c **
?????? 199?
Starting up the righthand line of bolts climb directly (no crack) to gain the arete above. The variation moving left into the crack is of far better quality.

Cave Righthand

Squirm Direct E3 5c **

Corpse E2 5b **

Coffin Corner HVS 5a
Follow easy broken ground to reach the obvious imposing corner at half-height. Old School, and well protected.

High Performance E3/4 6a *
From the top of the boulder, accessible through the arch, walk up the ramp leftwards to reach a diagonal finger crack cutting through the overlap. A couple of burly moves lead to a flat hold, peg runners and an interesting groove to finish.

Deaths Head E1/2 5c **
Start from the top of the boulder, accessible through the arch. Up the steep groove and flake before stepping right onto the arete and up to a good rest. Finish via the exciting leftward ramp at the top

Crutch S **
A popular warm up route, and one of the few decent moderate routes on the crag. To the right of the cave arch, follow a rough ramp left, through a crack system and into the corner at the left of the recess.

Marjorie Razorblade E3 5c **
"The most fallen-off E3 in Scotland"? Climb directly up to the ramp and continue with strenuous jamming/layback up the obvious hand crack. Finish up the OH groove to the left is usually taken as a separate pitch.

The crag is then split by a broken slab (used by some as descent but beware loose earth). To its right is a steep bulge with the following routes.

Tumbleweed E2 5b **

Laughing Gnome E5 5c/6a
Climb to the ledge as for Gnome, pause to arrange as much protection as you can find, leave the rest of your gear behind and fire up left onto the overhanging arete and glory.

Gnome E1 5b
Climb the broken rib to the ledge and continue up the groove to the right (peg runner)

Tombstone E2/3 5c