Wolfcrag Quarry

This guide is an attempt to document the boulder problems that exist at Wolfcrag.

Due to the nature of the crag it can be a confusing place to try to figure out without a guide, as many of the best problems are not obvious. There are numerous other eliminates and variations on problems that are not documented here because of the difficulty in describing them. The main non-eliminate problems and the best eliminates are included, eliminate problems are marked with an (e).

Getting there

To find wolfcrag, the easiest directions are from the mini-roundabout at the bridge over the Allan Water in Bridge of Allan, take the road leading up along the river, then take the first road on the right up a steep hill, the crag lies in the trees at the top of the road

Grades

This guide uses the standard ‘V’ grade system as well as the British technical grade which indicate the overall difficulty and the hardest move. Grading is not an exact science, they are graded to be consistent with the grades at Dumbarton and other popular bouldering venues nearby. All climbs listed in the guide have been climbed by myself or witnessed by myself, there are also a few projects which are listed, this is not to say they have not been climbed previously. Although given the quality of climbers to have visited Wolfcrag it is likely that there are boulder problems harder than the hardest listed in this guide. For some of the climbs names have been given, these are names that have been used by some of the locals, by naming the problems it does not assume that the person who named it was the first ascentionist.

Some problems are highball and it is up to the climber to decide whether they feel safe climbing them. Although the ground at the base of the crag is flat, bouldering mats can greatly improve the landing as well as prevent the erosion at the base of the crag. Remember some of the best boulder problems are the ones that you make yourself.

The problems

Here is a tick-list of some the best climbs at Wolfcrag.

• Right Hand Crack V0
• Classic Dyno V0
• The Arete V1
• The Crack V1
• Iain’s Wall V1
• Jammed Block V3
• Tendonitis V4
• Hard Dyno V4
• The Full Low Traverse V5 (F7a)

The crag is split into 7 different areas. The map below will hopefully make it easier to navigate.

Area 1 - First Buttress

The First Buttress is the first area of the climbable rock which appears on the left as you walk into the main quarry. The classic climb in this area is The Arete which takes the arete to the ledge at the top. Problems 4 7 all finish on the good holds above the roof on the right of the buttress. A mat is useful for this area as many of the climbs finish high and require a jump off. There is a spike of rock sticking out of the ground that should be avoided or covered by a mat, it has sent at least one climber to the a&e.

1. -V3 6a (e)
Start using the sidepull to climb the wall left of the arete, the foot ledge is out. Finish on the good jug below the top ledge. Technical

2. The Arete V1 5b **
Climb straight up the obvious arete on good holds after a tricky start. A sit-start can be added at V2 5c.

3. Hard Arete V5 6b ** (e)
An excellent climb if not a bit contrived. Sit start on the right side of the arete using a rounded sidepull, then gain the edges on the face, reach left for the arete, gain a good flat hold on the arete then lunge for the top ledge. V3 6a without SS.

4. V1 5c
Gain the crimps in the middle of the vertical face from a rounded sidepull on the left, finish to the right on good finger jugs.

5. V0 5a
Climb the right side of the wall, using the triangular hold to gain the good finger jugs above.

6. Corner V1 5b *
From in the corner, dyno to the good jugs above from the big triangular hold. Committing, but easier than it looks, can be done statically by the tall.

7. No Hold V2 5c * (e)
A technical masterpiece. Climb up the corner without using the large triangular hold for hand or feet, good footwork required.

8. Limbo V0 5b
Traverse left from the corner past the arete staying very low, the low foot ledges are in.

Area 2 - Block Land

This area begins 10m to the right of the first buttress at the next area of climbable rock and continues around the corner to the where the angle becomes vertical. It is often overlooked as the rock quality is not as good and its not as steep as the other walls, but its blocky nature gives it larger holds and makes it better for beginners. The notable exception and best climb in this section is Funky Munky, which is a steep powerful climb unlike any other in the quarry.

9. V1 5b (e)
The flat wall left of the overhang, can be climbed to a flat hold at the top without using the right arete. Sit-start at the same grade.

10. V0 5b *
Just to the right the sticking out block gives good steep climbing on juggy holds, finish high standing on the first ledge.

11. V2 5c
Traverse left from problem 13 on good holds above the overhang to finish on the starting holds to 10.

12. V3 6a (e)
Traverse in either direction (or both) under the roof with little for feet.

13. V0 4b
The slabby arete can be climbed up a few meters with little difficulty, it also has to be down-climbed to get down.

14. V0 5a
Just right of problem 13 the slab can be climbed to its top without using holds on the arete.

15. V1 5c (e)
Right again is a clean slabby wall. Start low with hands on the sloping ramp and feet on small edges to slap up for the next break. Short but sweet.

16. V2 5c (e)
Before the roof there is another clean slab, use only the small chipped pockets to gain the break at the top, very eliminate. Feels scary but is easily escapable.

17. Funky Munky V4 6b *
At the roof jump to the obvious juggy break then campus (no feet) up to the good crimp, sloper then finish on the good flat hold up and right. Powerful. A good challenge is to do as many pull-ups as possible on the jugs then try the problem.

18. V2 5c *
The same as for Funky Monkey but use feet.

19 V0 4c
Sit-start under a small overhang to reach the good ledge and finish on the jugs above.

20. V0 5a *
At the runnel, hidden holds allow the juggy top to be reached.

21. V0 4b
In the corner bridge up to reach the good ledge by the bush, topping out is optional.

Section 3 - Short Wall and Dyno Block

This section encompassed the short wall to the right of the corner and the obvious detached block to the left of the main wall. An added bonus to this section is that it is possible to top out on all the problems here and descend to the right of problem 23. On the short wall Sloppy Traverse is a great test of endurance on sloping holds, which is notably easier for the short. The Dyno Block is has many great eliminate dynos on it which all top out on top of the block, the easiest being Classic Dyno. A Wolfcrag testpiece is the Jammed Block Eliminate which also finishes on top of the block, it requires strong fingers and good conditions.

22.1. End Of The Begining V4 6b *(e)
Starting low on the two sloping edges left of the big sloping recess, stemming with the corner, Go up for the sloping pocket, then up to the gastion and topout. Eliminate.

22.2. V2 5c*(e)
Starting in the big sloping recess, go up to gastion in the crack, then go for the two small sloping shelves (giant sloping upleft shelf is off, along with all jugs at it's level)then up for edges high above, using handjam if deemed necasary.

22. V1 5b *
The standing start to problem 23. Start at the good high sidepull a meter right of the corner, get feet high and gain the top ledge. A good problem in itself.

23. Sloping Traverse V3 5c **
Sit-start just to the left of the Dyno Block, traverse left on the low sloping shelf, then make a tricky move to gain the standing start position and top out.

24. Block Traverse V1 5b *
A few nice moves starting in the hold to the left of problem 25 traverse right across the block to problem the Right Hand Crack. It helps to stay very low.

25. Left Hand Crack V2 5c **
Starting with hands in the two low pockets in the left-hand crack, slap up to the top and pull over

26. Tim’s Dyno V3 6b *
Start in the two low pockets of Left Hand Crack, then contort your body and dyno to the middle of the block. Feels hard until you figure it out.

27. Classic Dyno V0 5b **
From opposing side-pulls dyno to the top of the block and pull over. V1 5c if you do a double dyno. Classic!

28. Low Dyno V2/3 5c/6a *
Dyno to the top of the block using the two low opposing sidepulls. A real mopho problem, easy if your tall, nails if your short

29. Jammed Block V3 6a **
Sit start with both hands on the jammed block in the right hand crack, go up and left for the small pocket, then gain the high crimp and top out. Excellent.

30. Jammed Block Eliminate V4 6b ** (e)
As for Jammed Block, but skip the top crimp and go straight for the top from the pocket.

30.5. Jammed Block Full Eliminate V4/5 6b ** (e)
A pure dyno. From both hands on the jammed block dyno straight to the top of the block. Very long.

31. Right Hand Crack V0 4c
Climb the short right hand crack to top out. The key is in the feet.

Section 4 - Main Wall Left

This section is the main face of the quarry. It is a high wall which is a few degrees overhanging. There are routes which climb to the top of this wall, but most boulder problems just finish at the first break. The problems in this wall are typically near vertical with small crimpy holds and pockets. A mat is useful to jump down to from the top of the problems other wise you would have to climb down. The better problems in this section are the Hard Dyno and The Crack which are both good testpieces at their grades.

32. Break Traverse V3 6a *
Starting up the right hand crack, traverse out right along the first break til you reach the top of the crack. Useful to have a spotter sliding the mat across.

33. Sidepull V5 6b
Using the same starting and finishing holds of Hard Dyno but this time use the awkward sidepull out left.

34. Hard Dyno V4 6b **
From a good flat hold just right of the right hand crack, do a big dyno to the good hold in the break. Satisfying!

35. Sit-start to Hard Dyno V7 6b *
Sit start directly below Hard Dyno, make a couple of hard moves to gain the flat hold, then dyno to finish.

36. V2 6a *
Starting right of the hard dyno on a good flat hold gain a good chipped pocket up and left, then cross through to the break. A nice move.

37. Diagonal V4 6a (e)
Start on the same hold as 36 then use the chipped pockets and slots in a diagonal line to the right to gain the break.

38. The Sheild V5 6b * (e)
Pull up on the sheild like feature from the ground (crux), make a big reach with the right to a good chip then another big reach with the left to the slot then the break, using handholds for feet.

39. V1 5c
Use the chipped holds left of the crack, getting feet high to finish in the break.

40. The Crack V1 5b ***
The Wolfcrag testpiece. Climb the crack to good holds at its top. V0 5a if the chipped pockets out left are used.

41. Pod Dyno V3/4 6a*
From sidepulls and a good hold above(but not the higher pocket) dyno straight to the pod without any other holds. Frustrating.

42. V1 5b (e)
A meter right of the crack use a sidepull and good chipped holds to gain the pod.

43. V0 5b**
Starting on the big flat hold, use the good jug above and chipped pockets to reach the pod

44. V1 5c (e)
Same start as for 43 but only use the holds on the faint crack to the pod.

45. V6 6b (e)
Sit start at a good flat hold and sidepull, go up to another sidepull above match then up again to the final diagonal sidepull.

46. Peg Crack V2 5c *
Climb the peg scarred crack.

47. V1 5b*
Sit start at the block below the chimp head, use good undercuts and jugs above to finish up problem 43.

Section 5 - Main Wall Right

This next section begins in the corner where the wall changes angle. The type of climbing is tall vertical problems. Most climbs top out on the high ledge and can be downclimbed carefully down and to the right. The landings are flat, so the highballs aren’t too scary with a couple mats and spotters.

48. Chimp Head V2 6a *
Bridge up the corner using the obvious blob (which resembles a chimp head) until good jugs are reached and a standing position is gained on the blob. You can jump down from here.

49. Chimp Head Eliminate V3 6a (e)
The same as for chimp head, but don’t use the chimp head blob for hands or feet until you’re standing on it. Difficult to do gracefully.

50. Left Wall V2 5c *
Climb up the left hand side of the wall on chipped pockets, to a good rest at the big letterbox hold, then continue up to the ledge for the full tick.

51. Mono Eliminate V3 6a (e)
Yard up the wall on three good mono’s and finish as for Right Wall.

52. Right Wall V2 5c *
Climb up the right hand side of the wall on small but positive chipped holds, to the ledge.

53. V1 5b
To the right of Right Wall climb up the faint arete until a big flat hold is reached on the arete and jump off.

54. Tendonitis V4 6a***
A classic testpiece of the crag. Climb directly up the wall on painfully small crimps, the difficulty eases off higher up but it feels quite high.

55. V0 5a*
To the right of Tendonitis the wall becomes more blocky, climb up to the first ledge using a nice tufa-like feature.

Section 6 - Iain’s Wall

The last section of climbable rock on the main face is Iain’s Wall. It is the smooth vertical wall with a low break running across it. This section gives up little in the way of positive holds, which means the problems are generally more technical than just pulling down on crimps. All the climbs finish at the second break 4m above the ground. The best climbs in this section are The Wall and Iain’s Wall Traverse.

56. Iain’s Wall Traverse V3 5c **
An excellent problem with very technical climbing. Start in the left corner with some reachy moves to gain the jug out right, traverse the length of the wall with feet on the first break, making use of the sheild-like feature. It can also be reversed at a reachy V4 6a.

57. Thumb Eliminate V4 6b
A very eliminate problem using unlikely holds. At the left hand side of the wall use a small crimp to gain a tiny pinch, then finish on the obvious crimp.

58. V2 5c
Crimp your way up the left hand side of the wall finishing in the break.

59. The Wall V1 5b **
Climb up the middle of the wall using the shield like feature. Technincal.

60. V3 6a
Climb up the right side of the wall using a sidepulls but not the arete to gain the crimps below the roof.

61. Mentalshelf V5 6b
An eliminate variation of problem 59. Do a pure mantle on the break, then reach high for a small crimp. Hard.

62. Low Travesre V0 5b
A low traverse with hands in the break, best done from right to left.

There are another two walls to the right of Iain’s wall, they could give up more problems with a bit of a clean, so far there is a V0 5b l-r traverse of the closest wall, and a tricky V3 6a sit-start up the middle.

Section 7 - The Back Wall

This rarely used section of the quarry which lies opposite Iains Wall has been recently cleaned, and provides some variation to the main problems. It is short so most problems are sit-starts. This section is worthwhile if you’ve ticked all the climbs at your grade on the main wall, but they are often wet and get dirty quickly.

63. V0 5b
Right of the roof climb the smooth wall to til it gets dirty

64. V0 5a
Sit start in the corner under the roof and climb up on good holds

65. V0 5b
Sit-start just to the left on good holds, and slap up on slopers.

66. Heel hook traverse V2 5c *
An enjoyable low traverse starting as for problem 64 then traversing left of big slopers to finish in good juggy sidepulls.

67. Low Traverse (Project)
A bum-scraping traverse starting at the far right hand end of this section then traversing left along the low seam.

The Routes

There are a few routes that are not on the main face, but these honestly are not worth the time. for routes 1-4 a small ledge and tree can be used for descent, to save you having to epic your way through the choss at the top. this ledge lies directly above route 4.

Section 3 - Short Wall and Dyno Block

1. The Outsider E2 5b
Climb the wide crack of problem 31, and climb the areté boyond until a a small ledge is gained for the feet, then trand boldly leftwards to the finish.

2. Up The Catwalk E2 5b
Climb route 1 untill on the ledge. once in the postion, move rightwards around the areté and finish up the main face.

Section 4 - Main Wall Left

3. Unnamed E6 6c **
start as for porbem 36, and continue to the second break by use of 2 small 2 finger pockets. The break gives a rest and good gear. A desperate move must be made to gain some more non-holds, by which the top is gained. Bring your anti-grav belt.

4. Leonardo E1 5c **
Start up problem 39 (crux) and carry on to the top using a series of good but spaced chipped holds. Good gear in the second break, and some wiggleable pegs at the easy finish. Lower-off above.

5. Tribal Look E3 5c *
Climb the obvious crack just right of the preivious route until a large niche is gained. Hand-traverse the niche rightwards and pull up more easily to good holds and then the ledge. An enjoyable laybacking flake leads to some hidden jugs. Clip the bolt on the left and hand-traverse left to the Leonardo lower-off.

Lock-It E3 5c **
The same as Tribal Look, but with a more direct start via the peg-scarred crack at the righthand side of the face that makes up problem 46. Easy E3, hard 5c for start.

Experiments in Incest E1 5a
Climb the corner of problem 48 and traverse the second break to finish on the ledge above problem 27. Alternite finish as for Up The Catwalk at E2.

Section 6 - Iain's Wall

Descent is by an interesting downclimb to the right of the wall.

Iain's Wa' E1 5c
Climb just left of the centre of the wall untill good holds are reached just below the small roof. Make a large reach right to gain a line of pockets which whisk you off to the top. Even optimists tend leave the rope behind for this wall.

Waterfront E2 6a
Climb the right hand side of the wall using sidepulls (but not the arete itself) untill an akward sloping sidepull is gain. Make a ridiculous move to gain the pockets and follow these to the top.